by A.J. Coltrane
Ain’t she a beaut?
My favorite sporting event of the year, by far.
I will now go apologize to the Super Bowl.
A baking and gardening journal. Mostly.
By Iron Chef Leftovers
Coq au vin is the perfect example of how French peasant food has become haute cuisine – a dish that is traditionally made with an old rooster so that it does not go to waste has become a $20 a plate staple in most French bistros. Traditionally the dish not only calls for an old rooster (good luck finding one of those today), but involves marinating the bird in wine for several days and a long, slow braise to produce a delicious, rich, filling and nutritious meal. I have several recipes for coq au vin, all of which are a multi-day process, except for this one. It comes from the 10th edition of the Betty Crocker Better Homes and Gardens New Cookbook. While the end result of this dish is not as rich and flavorful as a more traditional recipe, the prep and cooking time is significantly less and it could easily be put together and made for dinner in one night (It can be done, start to finish in less than 2 hours).
The Software
2 1/2 pounds of chicken parts, skin on
2 tablespoons olive oil
12 –18 pearl onions or shallots, peeled
1 1/4 cup red wine, preferably Burgundy or a lighter Pinot Noir
1 cup thinly sliced mushrooms
1 cup thinly sliced carrot
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon dried marjoram
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons butter, softened
2 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled
3 tablespoons parsley
Salt
Pepper
The Recipe
In a 12-inch skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Don’t use a non-stick skillet for this.
Season the chicken and add to the pan, skin side down.
Note: You want about 1/2 inch of space between the pieces. If there is not enough space, brown the chicken in 2 batches.
Cook for approximately 8 minutes until it begins to brown and flip cooking for another 8 minutes.
Remove the chicken from the pan, drain off the fat and reserve two tablespoons, being careful not to lose any fond on the pan.
Add the 2 tablespoons of fat back to the pan and reduce the heat to medium.
Add mushrooms, carrot and onions and sauté for about 5 minutes.
Add garlic, parsley, marjoram, thyme, bay leaf and wine and bring to a boil.
Once at a boil, add the chicken, reduce heat and simmer covered on medium-low until the chicken is done, about 35-40 minutes.
When chicken is cooked, remove from the pan to a plate and discard bay leaf. Leave the vegetables and wine in the pan. Increase heat to medium.
In a separate bowl combine the flour and butter and mash with the back of a spoon until a smooth paste is formed.
Whisk the paste to the sauce and stir until it begins to thicken and bubble.
Cook for one additional minute after it begins to bubble and taste. Add salt and pepper as needed.
Turn off the heat and return the chicken and any accumulated juices to the pan for 2 minutes.
Server over a bed of noodles using the remaining parsley and bacon as a garnish.
Notes
Most of this recipe is copied as is from its original source with a couple of modifications in techniques added by yours truly. The original recipe calls for chicken parts – breast, drumstick and thighs, but I would highly recommend only using thighs – they are fairly uniform, they are much harder to dry out and will produce the best flavor in this dish. I prefer shallots to pearl onions in this dish, as I like their flavor more. You need about 1 – 1/1/2 cups of sliced shallots for this dish. Traditionally this isn’t served over anything, but it works well with egg noodles, fettuccini, rice (really good over risotto) or mashed potatoes. The searing of the chicken could probably be done ahead of time and then everything thrown into a slow cooker – I have never tried it, but it is a braise, so it should work. There are a few techniques with this that I would love to try at some point so be on the lookout for the variations of this recipe some time in the future.
By Iron Chef Leftovers
A few weeks ago, I saw an announcement for the DNA project – a joint brewing project between three of my favorite breweries: Diamond Knot, North Sound Brewing and Anacortes Brewing. The collectively brewed 3 beers and released them on Tuesday, March 6th at the new Anacortes Brewing owned – H20 restaurant. Of course, being the sucker for beer and having nothing better to do on a Tuesday night, I trekked the 75 miles each way to Anacortes for the release. All three beers were great, and it was an overall fun night; well worth the drive. Now for the beers:
Hoppy Lager by Diamond Knot
Smells like a summer day – a lager that you want to drink on a sunny, 75 degree summer day on your back patio. Crisp and dry with a barely noticeable hint of hops. Lightly malted with a short, clean finish, enhanced by a hint of hops as the beer fades from the palate. A fine lager and one I would order in a second on a warm day, but not the beer I was in the mood for on a 35 degree evening.
4 sheepshanks out of 5
Red Rye Oat – North Sound Brewing
A red ale. Distinctive rye character on the nose with subtle whiffs of oatmeal. Slightly sweet and malty with hints of hops. A long finish of oats, rye and caraway. Dry, almost tannic on the tongue (in a good way). Reminds me of a very light rye bread.
4.5 whinnies out of 5
Big Black and Hoppy – Anacortes Brewing
A black IPA. Plenty of malt on the nose with a hint of hops. The initial taste is a hop bomb on the palate with a slight lingering bitterness, but not cloyingly hoppy nor overpowering with its alcohol despite its 9.8% ABV. Floral notes give way to a wonderful chocolaty and malty finish. Extraordinarily smooth; hangs around on the palate for a very long time (I mean minutes worth of lingering) in a wonderfully pleasant way. Reminds me of both a stellar IPA and a wonderful porter. Perfect for a cold winter day and paired wonderfully with the burger I had for dinner.
4.5 blackouts out of 5
There are 2 more release events scheduled for these beers – on March 13th at the Empire Ale House in Mount Vernon and March 21st at the Diamond Knot Alehouse on Front Street in Mukilteo. I would highly recommend trying all 3 of these beers at one of these events – especially since you will have the opportunity to talk to the brewers at the same time.
by A.J. Coltrane
The UW men’s basketball team lost to Oregon State earlier today, 86-84, damaging their chances to make the NCAA tournament.
During the game, the Huskies went 12-26 from the free throw line (42.6%). That’s bad.
By coincidence, tonight I started researching team stats in earnest, to prepare for the upcoming wagering. I figured I’d look to see what teams were terrible at free throws; maybe I’d find a hidden achilles heel.
As it turns out, the Huskies were at 61.2% on their free throws through Wednesday, ranking 329th out of 345 total teams. That’s bad bad bad.
It was only a matter of time until that bit them in the behind. Ouch!
by A.J. Coltrane
In his book, My Bread, Jim Lahey recommends using a 5-quart cast iron dutch oven to bake the No Knead recipe.
Here’s a very affordable option: The Lodge 5-qt, at about $32. It’s widely available, the picture below is taken from the Target website:
It’s an easy expense to justify too — figure that one large delicious loaf of bread will cost somewhere around a dollar to make; the dutch oven will pay for itself in no time!
How can you resist?!
by A.J. Coltrane
GNOIF #4 Recap — GNOIF: You Are My Density (Trying for a “Back To The Future” Theme. Note the Star Fluxx, Rocketville, Omega Virus, and Robo Rally… that was the big idea anyway..)
Games That Got Played: Agricola, Flash Duel, Star Fluxx, Magic The Gathering, The Omega Virus, Ticket to Ride Card Game, Ticket to Ride Europe.

Games That Didn’t Get Played: Caesar and Cleopatra, Settlers of Catan, Dominion, Lost Cities, Mr. Jack (pocket), Robo Rally, Rocketville.
We’re now getting to the point that people who learn games at one GNOIF can teach them to people at a future GNOIF, and as more people get more comfortable with more games it makes the games themselves go faster too. Ticket To Ride Europe required no introduction and wrapped up pretty quickly; even something as complicated as Agricola didn’t need host involvement to get going. Good progress!
Early in the evening I played a few games of Magic The Gathering. I’d forgotten how much I enjoy M:TG — I haven’t played it in ages, but we trotted out some of my decks from 1999 and had a good time. I could have played more.
Guests brought The Omega Virus, a “talking” electronic game from 1992. It’s a timed game, so it’s fast paced and kind of hectic, and we all had a good time. Ultimately JC was able to pull out a win at the last minute. (Which was much better than the “computer” winning…I’ve never been called “Human Scum” before, but now I think I’ve been insulted that way about fifty times.)

I’d be interested to hear what everyone thought of what they played. Thanks for playing all!
By Iron Chef Leftovers
The website thedailymeal.com, released their list of the 101 best restaurants in America. Seattle did fairly well, sporting 3 restaurants on the list, with Canlis coming in the highest at number 31. Here are the Seattle restaurants that make the list:
96. The Walrus and the Carpenter
70. Herbfarm
31. Canlis
Portland, despite the same number of restaurants on the list, did better in the overall rankings:
69. Beast
62. Le Pigeon
12. Pok Pok
Of the 6 on the list from the Northwest, I have been to 2 of them – Canlis (once) and Le Pigeon (four times). Honestly, Le Pigeon is a much better restaurant than Canlis and I can think of at least a half dozen places that I would rank ahead of Canlis just in Seattle.
Overall, the list is predictably dominated by restaurants from New York and San Francisco, which should surprise no one.
My problem with this list, and list like it, is that you end up with a lot of places on the list that have been around for a long time and, while they are excellent meals, are very dated and on their list because of their reputation. A couple that jump out: Peter Luger in NYC, Katz’s Deli in NYC, Al Forno in Providence, RI, and Canlis. I have eaten at all of these places. Canlis (which I have been meaning to review for a few months now) was a fine experience and well prepared, but was horribly expensive and didn’t really leave me thinking I have to come back to this place. Peter Luger and Al Forno were both the same way as Canlis and Katz’s is an overpriced tourist trap.
That being said, I think this list does a pretty good job accounting for newer restaurants and probably got the top 10 close to right.
One thing that I did notice – Boston, which is apparently on the short list for the next Top Chef season along with Portland, only had 1 restaurant on the list – O-Ya at number 88. Just another reason Boston is not really a great location for Top Chef to visit.
By Iron Chef Lefrovers
If you happen to be free this Thursday morning and in the Fremont neighborhood, you might want to stop into the Book Larder on Fremont Ave. for a talk with Gail Simmons, of Top Chef fame. She and the boys will be in town promoting her new book from 9:30 – 10:30.
I may just have to come down with a case of something.

by A.J. Coltrane
Photos from Hops & Props, a benefit/ beer event at the Museum of Flight.

Next year we’ll skip the VIP dinner. Too much talking by the speakers. Too little drinking and tasting. Ostensibly it was a Pike beer and food pairing. It was mostly a lecture, and a numbing one at that. I think we sat there about 25 minutes before we were allowed to taste the first actual beer, and the event ran over its alloted 1 hour timeframe due to the windbag element.
I’m always the most amped about the piston-powered planes. The black plane on the left is either the same model that the Red Baron piloted, or a very close relative.
A view of one of the buffets. The sandwiches were mostly bread. I think they might have attempted to be a little “classier” the last couple of years as compared to this year, but after some beverages I’m not arguing with a tasty corn dog.

A portion of the coat check line. The moral: Don’t bring a coat to these events.
I think the last couple of years there were more people that came to the event for the airplanes. It seems to have shifted to more of a beer crowd, and some of the lines were really long.
Having said all of that: I’d highly recommend this event — it’s probably my favorite event every year.
By Iron Chef Leftovers
I don’t have a great ego when it comes to cooking, but I am pretty good at it. Contrary to what some people think, I really couldn’t be a professional chef nor would I want to – I enjoy cooking and it is my relaxation. Baking on the other hand is not something I am good at – where I excel in cooking a savory dish is that I know how flavors work together, I can improvise and improve a recipe on the fly and I can adjust the dish during the cooking process to correct it, baking it’s the opposite. I hate that you can’t tell if you got it right until the finished product comes out of the oven and by that point it is too late to do anything about it. Don’t get me wrong, I understand the science behind baking and why ingredients do what they do, but I hate the lack of improvisation that baking delivers.
Why do I mention this, well up until a few weeks ago, my greatest culinary failure had been a tiramisu that I forgot to add the egg whites. I realized this after I put the entire thing together, when it was too late to add the egg whites, but fortunately, I was able to save it by putting in some cream and running it though an ice cream machine and I ended up with tiramisu ice cream. It turned out to be edible at least.
A few weeks ago, I had a few bananas that were well past being edible (they were black), perfect for banana bread. I remembered there was a really easy recipe for it on cooksillustrated.com, so I went there to grab it. Instead of printing it out, I wrote down the ingredients. Unfortunately, Mrs. Iron Chef came home as I was doing this and I got distracted. I picked up where I left off and this is what I wrote down:

I looked at the ingredients list and thought it looked a little strange, but I figured that it was right, so I proceeded to put everything together and bake the bread. It smells wonderful in the house the entire time it is baking. After and hour I check for doneness and pull it out of the oven and think, it looks a little odd. I finally pull it out of the pan and onto the rack and think, it looks really flat. I let it cool, it settles and looks like this:
I know at this point I screwed it up. I taste it and it tastes good, but the bread is so dense that it is practically inedible. You could probably build a house with this thing it is so dense.
So what did I screw up? I left out one simple but very important ingredient – the leavening agent, in this case, baking soda. The leavening is what causes baked goods to rise by adding gas to the batter as it cooked. When you don’t you get something that is dense enough to collapse in on itself and form a black hole.

In case you are wondering, here is the actual recipe, and I do recommend it. It is quick to assemble and produces pretty good banana bread. From cooksillustrted.com:
Makes one 9-inch loaf
Greasing and flouring only the bottom of a regular loaf pan causes the bread to cling to the sides and rise higher. If using a nonstick loaf pan, on which the sides are very slick, grease and flour sides as well as the bottom.
Ingredients
* 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
* 3/4 cup granulated sugar
* 3/4 teaspoon baking soda
* 1/2 teaspoon table salt
* 1 1/4 cups toasted walnuts , chopped coarse (about 1 cup)
* 3 very ripe bananas , soft, darkly speckled, mashed well (about 1 1/2 cups)
* 1/4 cup plain yogurt
* 2 large eggs , beaten lightly
* 6 tablespoons unsalted butter , melted and cooled
* 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Instructions
1. Adjust oven rack to lower middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease bottom only of regular loaf pan, or grease and flour bottom and sides of nonstick 9-by-5-by-3-inch loaf pan; set aside. Combine first five ingredients together in large bowl; set aside.
2. Mix mashed bananas, yogurt, eggs, butter, and vanilla with wooden spoon in medium bowl. Lightly fold banana mixture into dry ingredients with rubber spatula until just combined and batter looks thick and chunky. Scrape batter into prepared loaf pan; bake until loaf is golden brown and toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, about 55 minutes. Cool in pan for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.