Getting Your Pork on This Weekend

By Iron Chef Leftovers

If you have a ton of money, time and a great desire to head to the desert this weekend, you should be in Vegas for All Star Cochon 555 (tickets start at $150).

What is it? Well, 10 chefs, 4 butchers, 14 pigs, all sorts of porky goodness – basically the premier porcine event of the year. The event includes the past 2 winners of the Grand Cochon 555 as well as a number of regional winners. The chefs I would love to see:

John Sundstrom of Lark in Seattle
Andy Ricker of Pok Pok in Portland (I have a big man-crush on this guy)
Devin Knell of French Laundry in Napa (any surprise that he won a cooking competition?)
David Varley of Michael Mina in SF
Stephanie Izard of Girl and the Goat in Chicago (and Top Chef Fame)

Some day, I will get myself to this and enjoy it and then probably die of a heart attack.

Turning Lobsters into Golf Balls

By Iron Chef Leftovers

A professor a the University of Maine has come up with a way to turn lobster shells into bio-degradable golf balls. Some of the details:

The lobster golf balls solve two environmental problems, actually. “We’re using a byproduct of the lobster-canning industry, which is currently miserably underutilized — it ends up in a landfill,” Neivandt said.

Neivandt and Caddell see the golf balls as particularly useful on cruise ships. They can be used with both drivers and irons, Caddell told WMTW.

Biodegradable golf balls currently on the market sell for about $1 a ball retail; the raw materials for the lobster shell balls cost as little as 19 cents.

I guess this shouldn’t be a surprise that someone from Maine came up with this, although I am surprised that it took this long. It makes me wonder if the same could be done with crab shells, since we do have a pretty large Dungeness crab processing industry in the Pacific Northwest.

This also gives me an idea for the next time I do a lobster dinner…

Mark Your Calendars

By Iron Chef Leftovers

Anthony Bourdain is invading the Pacific Northwest. He will be appearing at the Paramount Theater in Seattle with Eric Ripert on February 12th, 2012. No word yet on when tickets will go on-sale.

For those who cannot wait that long, Bourdain will be showing up in Vancouver BC on October 29th at the Centre for the Performing Arts. Tickets start at around 60$ CAD (150$ if you opt for the VIP package) and go on-sale this Friday. If you want to save 10%, you can use the code BLUE until 11:59 PM Thursday to pre-order.

To The Tune Of Cake

by A.J. Coltrane

Forwarded to me by my buddy D. It’s two members of the band Cake, Vince and Pete, in a cooking contest.

The judges may be the best part:  Rick James (as in “I’m Rick James, b*tch!”), Phyllis Diller, and Jeff Smith (the Frugal Gourmet.)


 

Chicken – a buying guide

By Iron Chef Leftovers

The other day, I happened to be shopping at the local megamart and I notices a sign for “buy one, get one free” whole free range chickens. I have long maintained that if you are buying poultry, the whole bird is a significantly better value than buying parts, so I decided that this is a good opportunity to put it to the test.

Braking down a bird is easy – with a minimum of knife skills, it shouldn’t take more than 10-15 minutes to break down a chicken. For this trial, I went slowly and it took me 8 minutes per bird. If I am just focusing on breaking them down, I can do it in about 5 minutes per bird. Someone who really knows what they are doing can break down the bird in less than a minute. It is really not hard – here’s a good demo on how to do it from Cheap Seat Eats favorite Ming Tsai:

http://www.graspr.com/html/flashplayer/swf/home_player.swf?dataID=http://www.graspr.com/html/flashplayer/data/data.php%3Fv=51ecca3abb51c77a924057626825f6a3&pid=108&gh=www&swid=20&lid=1

Either way, with breaking the birds down and packaging them up for the freezer, you will be investing no more than 30-45 minutes for 2 birds.

In breaking down the chicken, there are really 2 groups that the parts fall into:

• “Supermarket” cuts – boneless, skinless breast, hind quarters (skin on legs and thighs) and wings
• “Throwaway” cuts – skin, offal, oyster, carcass and neck

Supermarket cuts are the things that you will generally find in the butcher case in your local megamart. Throwaway (for lack of a better term) are things you would be able to get for free from most butchers (and some megamarts if they break down their own chickens for parts) or at a very nominal cost. People will generally toss these parts on a whole chicken – whatever you do, don’t do that. I will talk about what to do with these later.

The total weight of the 2 birds was 10.26 pounds at a cost of $11.78 ($1.19 per pound for you keeping track at home) and the regular price per pound is $2.29 for the whole bird. Here is how the supermarket cuts played out:

Part Total Weight % of Total Bird Weight
Breast 2.93 Lbs 28.5%
Legs and Thighs 2.76 Lbs 26.9%
Wings 0.98 Lbs 9.5%

Buying a whole bird has a good yield – about 65% of the bird’s total weight is supermarket cuts. Even if you used nothing else on the bird, you have just pulled nearly 6.5 pounds of meat from 10.25 pounds of starting weight. Yes, there is some bone and skin factored in on this, but you would pay for those if you bought the parts at the supermarket.

Here is the price per pound comparison. I adjusted the cost per part off the whole bird to assume that a person takes a whole bird and throws away everything but the supermarket cuts and assumed that the same price ratios as the packaged parts (i.e. if a breast is $6 per pound and thighs are $3 per pound, the breast absorbs 2 times the total cost as the thighs). I also calculated the total cost for both breaking down the whole bird vs. buying the parts using the weights on the birds I broke down. (On a side note – if you ever need to prove to anyone the useful application of algebra, this is it).

Part Whole Price/Lb Whole Total Cost Parts Price/LB Parts Total Cost Savings
Breast 2.61 7.65 7.29 21.36 13.71
Leg & Thigh 1.14 3.15 3.19 8.80 5.65
Wings .98 1.00 2.79 2.73 1.73

No markup there. I basically just saved $20 by buying the birds and breaking them down. Even at the regular price, there is about a $4.50 savings per bird. Heck, if I used nothing else besides the breasts, I still would have saved myself about $9. The way I look at it, I now have the bulk of the ingredients for stock (neck and carcass), chicken gravy (neck, offal and carcass), real “Chicken Nuggets” (oysters) and Fried Chicken Croutons (skin), but those recipes are for another post.

Of course, you can just keep the birds whole and roast them (which are a lot easier and quicker than you think). It is a truly lost item at the dinner table and should really make a comeback. (Once again, that is for another post)

You may say, but Iron Chef, I can go down to Costco or my local megamart and get chicken breast for $2.99 a pound and not have to do all the work you did. A couple things you want to consider:
• The stuff at your megamart is probably factory farmed and you really don’t want to know how factory farmed chicken is raised.
• There is a very good chance that you are paying for a bird that has been treated with a salt water solution (brined) to keep it from drying out in cooking. I usually say this on the label and that water can add up to 15% of the total weight that you are paying for.
• Frankly, Free Range and Organic Chicken just tastes better and is better for you and the environment.

If you really want to splurge, buy a heritage free range chicken from your local farmer. They are not cheap (around $6 per pound) but they are better than anything you will ever buy in a store

San Giorgio Spaghetti

By Iron Chef Leftovers

For some reason tonight as I am washing the dishes after dinner, the San Giorgio spaghetti song pops into my head. I am pretty sure that the commercial only aired in the New York metro area based on the line: “So grab a fork, come on New York; New York loves San Giorgio; a great spaghetti in a great spaghetti town.”

Would you believe, despite the vast resources of the internet, that commercial does not exist anywhere that I could find. How is that possible?

Instead, I will leave you with the other great San Giorgio commercial:

 

Iron Chef Top 10 Places I Haven’t Been Yet, but Really Want to Get to in the Pacific Northwest

By Iron Chef Leftovers

The question always comes up, where should we go for dinner. I am always up for trying a new place, Mrs. Iron Chef, not so much, so I don’t always get to try places as quickly as I would like. As a result, I present to you the “Iron Chef Top 10 Places I Haven’t Been Yet, but Really Want to Get to in the Pacific Northwest.” Presented by city in no particular order. If you have been to any of these places, post a comment and let me know what you thought.

The Top 10 – Seattle
It wasn’t easy narrowing Seattle to a top 10, considering I live here and I tend to be much more in tune with the dining scene. With all of the places I have been in Seattle, a few of these surprise me as places I haven’t been yet.

Roasted Pig at Taste Washington – it must be love!

1) 360 Local – This place specialize in local, seasonal items and seems to have a love for the “economy cuts” of meat. How could you not love that? They also have a pretty fantastic happy hour.
2) The Corson Building – Tucked under the Michigan St. overpass in Georgetown, communal dining and no menu. Two of my favorite things.
3) The Walrus and The Carpenter – Hidden behind Staple & Fancy and a bike shop, the place is tiny and the waits are horrific. I have been told the best oysters in town are here though.
4) Canlis – For obvious reasons, but also because Chef Jason Franey told me that he loved me when I asked him for the cheeks off the whole roasted pig at his cooking demo at Taste Washington.
5) Quinn’s – Somehow I have not been here, considered the best gastropub in the city.
6) Lecosho – Pork, Pork and more Pork. Did I mention Pork?
7) Staple & Fancy – Need to get there soon, Stinging Nettle Soup!!!!
8) Poppy – Love Jerry Traunfeld, love the concept – Indian inspired NW food.
9) Spur – The leading molecular gastronomists in Seattle. Not for everyone, but I am definitely curious.
10) Tat’s Deli – So many people claim this is the best cheesesteak in Seattle and it rivals the ones in Philly. I will be the judge of that.

Top 10 – Portland
I have been really lacking on dining out in Portland. Usually my trips there are either day trips or for another purpose which doesn’t let me enjoy the dining scene in the Rose City. I probably could have added another 10 to this list, but I figure I will start here.

You want Chef Rucker cooking for you at Little Bird, because he can turn out amazing food in a kitchen smaller than the ones found in most homes and, frankly, he is a better cook than you are.

1) Beast – Another communal dining, fixed menu place. I have wanted to go here for some time, but they are only open 4 days a week and the place is small. Naomi Pomeroy’s success on Top Chef Masters probably won’t help.
2) Olympic Provisions – A friend of mine swears this place is better than Laurelhurst Market. It is in the middle of nowhere in an industrial park. I am all for it.
3) Pok Pok – Never felt like waiting forever, but considered to be some of the best Thai outside of Thailand. Lots of stuff you don’t see on most Thai menus.
4) Nostrana – It has great Italian, has been there forever and I have never been.
5) Little Bird – I am a HUGE fan of the Bird’s big sister Le Pigeon.
6) Toro Bravo – A Tapas joint. I know a few people who consider this the best restaurant in Portland, period.
7) June – Another farm to table place getting fantastic reviews.
8) Paley’s Place – In the Canlis class with price, but food is supposed to be out of this world.
9) Tasty N Sons – The little bro of Toro Bravo. With a name like Tasty N Sons, how could you not want to try it?
10) Andia – Peruvian food and highly rated. Besides, raise your hand if you have ever actually been to a Peruvian restaurant. (Iron Chef hangs his head in shame – he has never been to one)

 

Top 9 – Vancouver

How could you now want to go to Vij’s after looking at this dish?

I love Vancouver and it has a great dining scenes, but I could only come up with 9 places that I want to go to. That is partially because I have hit most of the places that I really wanted to go to already and dining out in Vancouver can be a very pricey proposition.
1) Cioppino – We ran into the chef of Cioppino at La Quercia in Vancouver. This place has won all sorts of “best of” awards and is priced accordingly.
2) Lumiere – Best French in Vancouver about a bizillion times.
3) Tojo’s – Probably the best sushi on the West Coast, if not all of North America. Booking to sit at the bar requires 3 months advanced reservation.
4) Vij’s – Some would argue the best eats in Vancouver. No reservations and people line up for dinner and hour before the restaurant opens.
5) Rain City Grill – Another local, sustainable place with an amazing view.
6) Chambar Belgian Restaurant – You had me at Belgian.
7) CinCin – I have been to the other Top Table Restaurants in Vancouver (West, Blue Water), but never this one. Probably the result of the prices and the abundance of great Italian in Vancouver.
8) Maenam – Wanted to go when it was called Gastropod. New owner, same chef, same glowing reviews.
9) La Ghianda – Little sister of La Quercia. It is a deli, and they cure in house. I am there.

Pasta with Asparagus and Bacon

By Iron Chef Leftovers

Spring is, in theory, here and I wanted to make a nice, quick and relatively light dish to use up some first of the season asparagus that I had and I had a hankering for pasta, so I figured that I would do a rift off a classic peas and prosciutto pasta using asparagus and bacon.

The Software
3/4 lb of pasta (rotini or penne are good choices for this)
1 lb asparagus – cut into 1/2 inch pieces, woody parts removed
5 slices bacon
1 tablespoon bacon fat (reserved from cooking the bacon)
1/4 cup chicken stock
1/2 cup vegetable stock
1/4 cup white wine or vermouth
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 shot (1 1/2 oz) cognac
1/4 medium yellow onion, sliced thin
1 garlic clove, minced
2 – 3 oz grated cheese (I used half and half pecorino Romano and parmigiano reggiano)
salt
pepper

The Recipe
Bring water to a boil for pasta. Add salt. Add pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente. Drain but do not rinse. Reserve about 1 cup of the pasta water.
In a large sauté pan, cook the bacon over medium heat until done. Remove from pan and drain on paper towels. Remove bacon fat from pan and reserve 1 tablespoon. Don’t wipe the pan after removing fat. When cooled, dice bacon into small pieces and set aside.

The finished product making good use of the season's bounty.

Raise heat to medium high and add asparagus and sprinkle with salt. Cook until it begins to soften and brown, about 3-4 minutes depending on the size of the stalks. Remove from pan and set aside.
Add the tablespoon of reserved bacon fat and onions to the pan. Saute the onions for 4-5 minutes until they begin to brown.
Reduce heat to medium and carefully add the stock, wine and cognac. Return heat to medium-high and bring to a boil for 4-5 minutes.
Add pasta and 1/2 of the cream. Cook for about 2 minutes.
Reduce heat to medium and add asparagus and cheese. Cook for about 2 minutes until the asparagus heats back up.
Add remaining cream, garlic and bacon and cook for an additional 45 seconds to a minute, stirring constantly.
For more sauce or if the sauce is too thick, add small amounts of the pasta water as necessary.
Taste – add salt and pepper as necessary.
Serve an enjoy

Notes
The sauce is meant to coat the pasta rather than drown it, so this doesn’t produce a great deal of sauce, but it has a ton of flavor as the past a will absorb a good deal of the liquid from the pan when it is put in and produce a very thick and creamy sauce. You can use almost any white wine to cook with in this recipe, but I really like the sweetness that vermouth brings to the dish. The bacon is really optional, but hey, everything is better with bacon.

I also happened to notice that Thursday Night Smackdown posted a variation of this recipe recently. I swear I wrote this before I saw TNSD’s version.

Totally Over the Top Mac & Cheese

By Iron Chef Leftovers

I get tons of requests for this mac and cheese recipe since it is easy to make and is phenomenally good. I can’t take a great deal of credit though; I took the base recipe from Alton Brown and made a few changes to it. I had the pleasure of talking about the changes that I made with Alton about a year ago and he liked them and suggested a few others, which I have since incorporated. If you want the original recipe, you can find it here. Otherwise you will get my revised recipe, which I dub “Totally Over the Top Mac & Cheese”.

Feel free to thank AB for this recipe if you have the chance to meet him. If you have the chance, take it - the man is a genius and hilarious to boot.

The Software
1/2 lb of elbow macaroni
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon powdered mustard
3 cups whole milk
1/2 cup onion, minced (about 3/4 of a medium onion)
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 large egg (lightly beaten)
6 oz Sharp Cheddar – shredded
6 oz Gruyere – shredded
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Black pepper to taste

The Recipe
• Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
• Shred the cheddar and Gruyere and mix the two together. Separate into 2 parts, one containing 1/4 of the cheese and 1 containing 3/4 of the cheese.
• Mince the onion. Bring 2 quarts of salted water to a boil in a 4 qt pan.
• Add pasta and cook for about 5 minutes to al dente and drain.
• While the water is coming to a boil, melt the butter in a 3 qt pan over medium heat.
• Whisk in the flour and cook until pale blond (about 3 minutes) stirring about every minute.
• Whisk in onion, paprika and mustard until combined (probably 30 seconds)
• Slowly add the milk and cook, whisking constantly until slightly thickened, about 7 minutes. Remove from heat.
• Slowly add 2 ladles full of the milk mixture to the egg, whisking as you add it. This will temper the egg to keep it from cooking and turning into scrambled eggs. I usually do this in a measuring cup. If there are any lumps (i.e. cooked egg), start over with another egg.
• Add the egg into the pot with the remainder of the milk and stir a couple of times to combine.
• Add 3/4 of the cheese to the sauce and stir until the cheese is melted, 1-2 minutes.
• Add the pasta to the sauce and add salt and pepper to taste.
• Put pasta and sauce in a 4 qt casserole dish, cover with the remaining cheese and bake in the over for 30 minutes.
• Let stand for 5 minutes and serve with your favorite hot sauce (or not)

IMPORTANT – don’t fully cook the pasta – it will finish cooking in the oven and it will be completely mushy if you cook it fully on the stove. Also, don’t rinse the pasta after you drain it.

Notes
Timing is important on this recipe, so I highly suggest preparing all of your ingredients before you start cooking – it really makes the job much easier when you are not trying to measure something while watching something else. I also highly recommend freezing the cheese for about 10 minutes prior to shredding – it makes it much easier. The shredding can be done in a food processor or using a box grater. Don’t buy the pre-shredded cheese, it really doesn’t taste the same and shredding yourself will take you 2 or 3 minutes extra and it will be worth it. I really like Beecher’s Flagship Cheese in this recipe, but if you aren’t local to Seattle, you probably won’t be able to find it, so just use your favorite cheddar. You can use all Cheddar if you would like, the Gruyere is optional. If you want a nice crusty cheese top, use a dish that is broiler safe and put under the broiler the last 2 minutes of cooking in the oven. If you like the crispy breadcrumb topping, please consult the original recipe. The pasta and sauce can be made in advance and then put in the oven later – just put it in the casserole dish, covered in the fridge and when you are ready to cook it, remove it from the fridge, uncover and let it sit at room temp for 15 minutes while you warm the oven. The leftovers also make really good fried mac and cheese the next day. I have played with several variations of this recipe, so here are the ones that I like the most:

Bacon Mac and Cheese
Cook 3/4 lb of bacon until just before browned. Drain on paper towels and mince. Sprinkle on top of the mac and cheese before putting in the oven.

Roasted Red Pepper and Sun Dried Tomato Mac and Cheese
Add 3 oz of minced sun dried tomatoes and 3 oz of roasted red pepper to the pasta and sauce before it goes into the casserole dish. Stir well to combine and finish in the oven.

Italian Mac and Cheese
Replace the Gruyere and Cheddar with equal parts (5 oz) Italian Fontal and Taleggio. Also add 1 oz of grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Pecorino Romano to the mix. Replace the elbow macaroni with 8 oz of penne. Follow the base recipe otherwise. You won’t use any of the cheese for a topping. Add some freshly chopped Italian parsley after cooking. Note – Taleggio and Fontina are soft cheeses, so you don’t need to shred them. Freeze them for 10 minutes and cut into 1/4-inch cubes for melting. Make sure you remove the rind also – it is edible, but not needed in this recipe. Fontal and Taleggio should be available in just about any gourmet market or cheese monger.

South of the Border Mac and Cheese
Replace the Gruyere and Cheddar with equal parts Monterrey Jack and Pepper Jack. Add some minced jalapeño before the pasta is put in the casserole. Follow base recipe otherwise.

I have always wanted to try an herb and goat cheese variation of this recipe, but haven’t gotten around to it.

Scandal In the Vegan World

By Iron Chef Leftovers

The chef at Seattle based 360 Local cutting what is obviously a well marbled piece of tofu.

In one of the more ironic pieces that I have read in The Stranger in a while, apparently a well known Vegan magazine was caught red handed doctoring stock photos of meat dishes and passing them off as vegan. You can read the whistleblower’s comments here. Now, I am probably a bigger carnivore than most people, but even I have a problem with this. If you are going to show me a picture of food, it better be what someone made with the recipe. I was also disturbed to find out there is a website that has stock photos of food.

What is even more disturbing was VegNews’s response to being outed:

The entire VegNews family is deeply saddened with the dialogue that has transpired over the last 12 hours. As an ethical vegan magazine, owned-and operated by vegans since its inception, VegNews is a labor of love, totally motivated by our dedication to ending animal suffering.

Yes, from time to time, after exhausting all options, we have resorted to using stock photography that may or may not be vegan. In an ideal world we would use custom-shot photography for every spread, but it is simply not financially feasible for VegNews at this time. In those rare times that we use an image that isn’t vegan, our entire (vegan) staff weighs in on whether or not it’s appropriate.

So, the way I read this – We are dedicated to militant veganism and think that all people who eat meat are worse than Hitler, but we are happy to use pictures of the same dead animals whose suffering we swear we are trying to end if it means that we can sell more magazines, even if it means deceiving our readers

What ever happened to truth in journalism?