A Burger with Heart

By Iron Chef Leftovers

I have been accused of being a food snob over the years because I tend to shun crappy, mass produced foods in favor of items that are freshly prepared on a small scale and because I will eat things that most Americans won’t, despite, in most of those cases, most of the rest of the world does eat it.

One case in point – beef heart. Before you go “yuck”, understand this – heart is a muscle that is no different from the steaks that you eat and it actually contains significantly less fat than most other cuts of beef. It also has an incredibly beefy flavor (not the metallic flavor that most people would assume it has since it is considered “organ meat”), much more so than just about any other cut off the cow. If you haven’t tried it, you should – it is cheaper than a steak and cooks incredibly quickly so it can be prepared for a weeknight meal.

All of this lead author Jennifer McLaglan to include a recipe for a heart burger in her Odd Bits cookbook. Before you say “yuck” again, be aware that if you are eating any commercially produced burger or using commercially produced ground beef, you probably have had heart already without knowing it. As she writes:

This is a great way to try heart for the first time…

I took this recipe and made it at home without telling Mrs. Iron Chef Leftovers what was in the burgers and she loved them. I suggest you try it for yourself before saying “yuck.”

The Software
¾ lbs. brisket, fat cap on, ground
¾ lbs. heart, fat on, cleaned and ground
1 ¼ teaspoons salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil, beef drippings or bacon fat

The Recipe
In a large bowl, combine all ingredients, except the oil, mixing gently until combined. Divide into 4 portions and form into patties about 1 inch thick. Place the patties on a large plate or sheet pan, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Pre-heat a pan or grill over medium high heat and add oil. When the oil begins to smoke, add the burgers. Cook for 4-5 minutes until a nice brown crust forms and flip, reducing the heat to medium. Cook for another 4-5 minutes until the burgers reach your desired doneness, Server with your favorite burger toppings.

Notes
I would highly recommend sourcing your heart from a small grower and preferably from a grass fed animal. You will get a better quality product with better flavor. I usually get mine from Skagit River Ranch. You probably won’t be able to find either ground heart or ground brisket easily, so you can see if you purveyor will grind it for you, or better yet, grind it at home yourself. I also added about 2 strips of uncooked bacon to my meat mix before I formed the patties and it took these burgers over the top. This comes in especially handy if the brisket you use does not have much fat. I would not recommend cooking these burgers all the way to well-done; they will dry out as a result and won’t be particularly tasty. If you are grinding the meat yourself and you have a good source, you shouldn’t need to cook these beyond medium-rare to medium. If you don’t like beef, pork belly or lamb shoulder can be subsituted for the brisket and the heart of those respective animals can be used.

When Web Designers Attack

By Iron Chef Leftovers

There are plenty of sites where you can find people’s opinions, good or bad, about restaurants. I have been known to check out sites like Yelp to see the bad reviews of a place just to see the kinds of stuff that people are complaining about when it comes to a restaurant that I am considering going. Any places that have consistently bad reviews and people are complaining about the same things are probably places to avoid.

In many cases, if a restaurant is terrible, the owner probably has cash flow issues and is not paying staff, vendors, taxes, etc. A recent case of this happened in Pennsylvania at a place called the Italian Village Restaurant (which also appeared on an episode of Restaurant: Impossible).

While not paying your restaurant staff can lead to lots of whispers and anonymous angry tweets, not paying your web designer can be a sticky situation for a restaurant owner.

Recently, the webmaster of The Italian Village in Milmont Park (which was on an episode of Restaurant:Impossible) decided to replace the cheesy web presence of the restaurant with detailed lists of shitty Yelp, Yahoo, and Google reviews. The very best one of the batch suggested throwing the live accordion player in the dumpster because he “belittled people” who didn’t request “Irish Eyes” and “Happy Birthday.” Instead of negotiating with the spurned HTML jockey, The Italian Village went ahead and bought a new domain.

I guess that when you fail to pay your webmaster, you probably deserve having all of your bad reviews put in one place.

Crab Rangoon Pizza

by A.J. Coltrane

Inspired by a “greatest pizza in the US” type of show:  It’s Crab Rangoon pizza!

For the uninitiated, Crab Rangoons are fried potstickers filled with cream cheese, crab, and scallions.

Crab Rangoons in their native habitat.

To make this into a pizza topping I combined the cream cheese with heavy cream, horseradish, shallots, and salt in a food processor. Then the crab was added and given a quick buzz to incorporate.

These ratios.

For the other “prep”, I coated wonton strips with a little canola oil and baked until lightly browned. (no pic, see below)

You can see the cooking aid to the back left. The lurid chili oil is to the back right.
Mozz on cream cheese. White on white.

I lightly coated the top and bottom of the pizza dough with canola oil and par-baked it on a screen for 8 minutes at 500F.  Then I added the cream cheese mixture and some shredded mozz and cooked for another 7 minutes.

I took it easy on the chili oil initially to make sure it stayed edible.

After the pizza came out of the oven it got topped with the wonton strips and sweet chili oil (sriracha, honey, and lime juice).

The chili oil wasn’t too hot, so the slices got more of it.
The underside.

It was no more work than a regular pizza, this one is going into the “making it again” file.

And Now For Something Completely Different…

By Iron Chef Leftovers

I like strange and unusual beers. There are tons of great beers on the market, but a great IPA is still an IPA and I pretty much know what I am going to get with the style. Experimental beers are a different matter. Places like Dogfish Head and Elysian (with their 12 Beers of the Apocalypse) are probably my two favorite breweries consistently putting out the odd ball stuff. We even have the Strange Brew festival in Port Townsend annually. There are plenty of misses when breweries try something completely different, but even their failures are worth trying since they are styles that are generally not really being done anywhere else.

I saw a post of the BrewDog website recently about a “collaboration” they are doing with Flying Dog Brewing out of Maryland, called International Arms Race.

From the BrewDog website:

When the team at Flying Dog threw down a gauntlet and challenged us to a battle collaboration entitled International Arms Race there was no way we were not going to take them on and show them who is boss when it comes to the brewing dogs!

The International Arms Race is a new type of collaboration: the brewing team from both Flying Dog and BrewDog set the parameters for the beer and the battle kicked off.

Both beers are dubbed ‘Zero IBU IPA’ and the challenge was to brew an IPA style beer using no hops: the hops are replaced with berries, herbs and roots. And we want you to judge who the winner is: Flying Dog or BrewDog!

I love the concept – and IPA with no IBU and using no hops! Unfortunately the BrewDog website does not mention any events for this in the U.S. and the Flying Dog website does not mention the competition at all. I would love to get to taste these 2 beers – a truly experimental IPA.

If I can’t get my hands on this beer, I would love to get a hold of the bottle. Maybe I can spend another 60$ on shipping beer?

A Little Orange to Aid Digestion

By Iron Chef Leftovers

Photos By AJ Coltrane

An attempt at a “Fear and Loathing” style camera shot.

I am finally getting around to posting the recipes from the Odd Bits dinner. I will be doing this in reverse order of how they were served, because the end of the meal is much less involved to write than the beginning was.

Honestly, I have no idea what to call this drink. The idea came from a wonderful book, Bitters: A Spirited History of a Classic Cure-All, with Cocktails, Recipes, and Formulas, by Brad Thomas Parsons. Bitters have intrigued me since I read an article about a year ago on how to make your own (which I still haven’t done). Bitters are basically an infusion of herbs and other flavors in alcohol and are generally used to enhance the flavors of drinks. They were originally sold as a restorative.

Early in the Bitters book, there is a recipe for a “restorative tonic” which I decided to play off of. Limoncello is an Italian liqueur that is usually served at the end of the meal, so why not use a bitters drink to do the same. It also helped that blood oranges were just coming into season, so I got a little creative.

The Software
Juice of half a blood orange
4 dashes Orange Bitters
4 Dashes Chocolate Bitters
4 oz sparkling water or club soda
2 ice cubes

The Drink
It is easy – in a highball glass, juice the orange, add the bitters and water or soda and give a quick stir. Add the ice cubes and serve.

Notes
I was going for a “chocolate orange flavor on this drink without it being oppressive. It is a light and refreshing and slightly fizzy drink with a hint of bitterness and chocolate notes at the end of the sip. A twist of orange peel would be a nice touch, but I wouldn’t really increase the amount of bitters in the drink without increasing the other liquids, otherwise they will overpower everything.

Beer of the Week: Firestone Walker Wookey Jack

By Iron Chef Leftovers

To celebrate National IPA day on August 2nd, I decided to crack a bottle of Firestone Walker Wookey Jack, combining a couple of my favorite offshoots of the IPA style – black IPA’s and Rye IPA’s. It is a big beer coming in at 60 IBU and 8.5% alcohol and is available in 22 oz. bottles and on tap in Washington. My beer was from a 22 oz. bottle.

From the Firestone website:

Wookey Jack is our first foray into the dark outer world of black IPAs. Rich dark malts and spicy rye careen into bold citrus laden hops creating a new dimension in IPA flavor. This brew has been left unfiltered and unfined to retain all of its texture and character. At 60 IBUs, Wookey Jack is gnarly on the outside yet complex and refined on the inside.

This beer pours jet black with a cream colored head – looks like a stout and you would probably guess that if you didn’t know what you were drinking. You would definitely know it when you smelled it though – lots of hops on the nose with hints of malt. The initial sip brings roasted malt on the palate with some caramel which gives way to floral and fruity notes with just a smattering of hops. The finish fades nicely into a mild bitterness.

Pleasant to drink but the rye is lost in the mix until the beer warms slightly. At about 50 degrees, the hop finish yields to a strong hit of rye a few seconds later. Reminded me of toasted pumpernickel bread as it warmed, with the addition of hops.

The beer is enjoyable but it just feels like it is trying to be too much at once. I would love to see Firestone produce a Black IPA and a Rye IPA separately just to see what the part taste like.

Firestone Walker Wookey Jack IPA gets itself 3 Kashyyyks out of 5.

Chicken Salad Redux

By Iron Chef Leftovers

One of the very first posts to this blog was a recipe for chicken salad. It is a good recipe, but I am always looking to make things better. Recently I was at a friend’s place and we were hungry and there was leftover chicken, so I decided to whip something up with the ingredients on hand. It was good; possibly better than the original, but I will let you decide.

The Software
1 chicken breast cut into bite sized pieces
1 large carrot finely minced
1 large stalk celery, finely minced
2 tablespoon finely minced yellow onion
2 scallions minced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon minced fresh dill
2 teaspoons minced fresh basil
Salt
Pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons mayo (see note)
1 1/2 tablespoons tzatziki (see note)
2 teaspoon whole grain mustard (see note)

• Note – when I say tablespoon for the mayo and teaspoon for the mustard, I am not talking about the measurements, I am talking about the spoons you would find in your silverware drawer. I just take 1 1/2 big scoops each of mayo/taztziki and 2 big teaspoon of mustard. If I had to guess measurements, 1/4 cup each of mayo abd tzatzki, 1 1/2 tablespoons (the measurement) of mustard.

The Salad
In a large bowl, combine the chicken, carrot, celery, scallions and onion.

The Dressing
This is a salad, so you are making a salad dressing essentially. In a bowl, combine the mayo, tzatziki, mustard, herbs, garlic powder and balsamic vinegar. Mix until well incorporated. Taste it. Add any additional seasoning as needed.

The Final Product
Add the dressing and fold using a spatula. Taste it. There should be a subtle hint of heat from the onions and mustard. I usually will add a few grinds of black pepper and, if needed, some salt and fold that in. That is it, you are done. If for some reason you like more dressing, just make some more and add it in. This is pretty potent stuff and you are really looking more to coat everything rather than drown it.

To Serve
Serve it however you want – on a sandwich, salad, or my favorite, just out of the bowl with a spoon.

The Spicy Variation
Add 1 minced jalepeno and 2 tablespoons (or more) of siriacha to the dressing and combine.

101 Must Taste Beers – The US Edition

By Iron Chef Leftovers

I was recently digging through some old papers and I came across a well-worn photocopy of an article that was in All About Beer Magazine, probably in 2003 (there is no date on the article) called “One Hundred and One Must –Taste Beers.” This list was a compilation of a request that the magazine sent out to a number of beer experts, so it was an interesting list – some are easily found and others are very regional. The writer of the article called this a beer “life list.” Only 41 of the 101 beers are American – the rest are from 11 countries. Of those remaining 59 beers, 21 are Belgian and 16 are German.  The list is not necessarily the 101 “best” beers, but really a list of things that you should drink because they are unique or the best example of a style of beer.

I am going to reprint the list in a couple of posts – one for the US, one for Germany and Belgium and one for everyone else, since I want to add some commentary around each section and that would make one massive post if I did not split it up.

Each country has 2 numbers – the first is the number of beers I have tried from that country and the other is the total number of beers on the list from that country. Needless to say, I have tried a lot of beer.

USA (33/41)

Beer Brewery
Liberty Ale Anchor Brewing (CA)
Alaskan Smoked Porter Alaskan Brewing (AK)
Belk’s ESB Anderson Valley Brewing (CA)
Avery IPA Avery Brewing (CO)
Hop Rod Rye Bear Republic Brewing (CA)
Monster Barleywine Brooklyn Brewing (NY)
Blonde Dopplebock Capital Brewery (WI)
Bohemian Pilsner Cleveland Chophouse (OH)
Traditional Lager Yuengling Brewing (PA)
Hampshire Special Ale Geary Brewing (ME)
Mirror Pond Pale Ale Deschutes Brewery (OR)
90-Minute IPA Dogfish Head (DE)
World Wide Stout Dogfish Head (DE)
Perseus Porter Elysian Brewing (WA)
Imperial Eclipse Stout Flossmoor Station Brewing (IL)
Crooked River ESB Frederick Brewing (MD)
Imperial Porter Full Sail Brewing (OR)
Elliot Ness Great Lakes Brewing (OH)
Gritty’s Best Bitter Gritty McDuff’s (ME)
Adam Hair of the Dog (OR)
Bells Two-Hearted Ale Kalamazoo Brewing (MI)
Live Oak Pilz Live Oak Brewing (TX)
Indica IPA Lost Coast Brewing (CA)
Steelhead Extra Pale Ale Mad River Brewing (CA)
Duck’s Breath Bitter McNeill’s Pub (VT)
Moylan’s Double IPA Moylan’s Brewing (CA)
La Folie New Belgium Brewing (CO)
Wisconsin Belgian Red New Glarus Brewing (WI)
Old Rasputin Imperial Stout North Coast Brewing (CA)
Red Seal Ale North Coast Brewing (CA)
Tupper’s Hop Pocket Ale Old Dominion Brewing (VA)
Stovepipe Porter Otter Creek Brewing (VT)
XXXXX Stout Pike Brewing (WA)
Cuvee de Tomme Pizza Port Brewing (CA)
Old Crustacean Barleywine Rogue Brewing (OR)
Pale Ale Sierra Nevada (CA)
Arrogant Bastard Ale Stone Brewing (CA)
Tabernash Weiss Tabernash Brewing (CO)
Hoppy Hour IPA The Mash House (NC)
Hop Devil Ale Victory Brewing (PA)
Raspberry Imperial Stout Weyerbacher Brewing (PA)

As far as I can tell, all of the breweries listed are still in business and I assume that they still probably make these beers. This list came out sometime before I moved to Seattle, and, at that time, I had only tried 15 of the US beers, since the list has a heavy West Coast presence and most of those beers were not available in Boston at the time (and some still are not). The GABF has also helped me try a number of the Midwestern beers that aren’t distributed to either coast.

It would be interesting to see how this list would change if it was done today, since brewing has changed so much in this country. I am sure that Pliny the Elder would be on here, and I can think of probably 10 or so more beers that could easily be on this list. For me, there are 2 beers I am surprised that I have not tried – the Pilsner from the Cleveland Chophouse and the Stout from Weyerbacher. The Weyerbacher brewery is 5 minutes from my parent’s house, and yet, I have never been there. I have been to Cleveland a number of times to visit my “brother from a different mother” and yet we have never been to the Chophouse. How have I managed that, especially since I have spent the cost of a plane ticket to have beer shipped from Scotland? Go figure.

 

Bacon Bread Pudding

By Iron Chef Leftovers
Photos By AJ Coltrane

Oh so tasty and oh so bad for you.

The Odd Bits dinner I made a while back was supposed to end with a Pig’s Blood Ice Cream. Everyone cringes when I say this, but don’t knock it until you try it. It is actually healthier than traditionally made ice cream as the blood replaces the eggs as the thickening agent and you need to use less volume of blood than you do eggs and the blood is higher in vitamins and minerals and lower in fat and cholesterol than the eggs. It is also the most intensely flavored chocolate ice cream you will ever have and no, it does not taste like blood – you actually wouldn’t even know blood is in there unless someone mentioned it.

That being said, it is freaking impossible to find usable blood in Seattle. You can get a “blood solution” but it is like jelly and will not return to a liquid state, which is fine for making blood sausage, but not so much for ice cream. As a result, I had to go to plan B on desert and went with Bacon Bread Pudding. Not exactly odd bits, but you generally don’t find many people having bacon for dessert (although you should). The nice thing about this recipe is that it is easy and can easily feed a large number of people with a minimum of effort. I adapted this recipe from Chef Larry Monaco’s original Maple Donut and Bacon Bread Pudding.

The Software

Bread Pudding:
2 cups granulated sugar
5 large eggs, beaten
2 cups milk
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 loaf (1.75 lbs) brioche, cut into 1 1/2 inch cubes
1 cup light brown sugar
1/4 cup bacon fat
1 lb thick sliced bacon, cooked crispy

Sauce:
1 1/2 cup of cream
1/2 cup brandy or bourbon
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup bacon fat or 1 stick of butter

The Bread Pudding
Spread the cubed bread on 2 rimmed baking sheets and put into a 300 degree oven for 1 hour a to 1 hour, 15 minutes until they are dried, rotating the pans half way through the process. You are essentially making brioche croutons. Let cool and place in a large bowl

Cook the bacon until it is crispy, reserving all of the fat. Dice the bacon into 1/4 inch pieces and set aside

In a bowl, combine the eggs, sugar milk and vanilla and whisk to combine. Pour the mixture over the bread and toss gently to combine (you don’t want to break up the bread). Let sit for 10 minutes for the liquid to absorb.

In a separate bowl, combine the bacon fat, brown sugar and bacon and toss to combine.

Grease a 9x13x2 baking dish with either butter or bacon fat. Put the bread mixture in first, arranging in one even layer, adding any remaining liquid from the bowl. Sprinkle the brown sugar bacon mixture on top in an even layer and bake in a preheated oven at 350 degrees for 35 to 45 minutes until set (you are looking for an internal temp of about 165-170 degrees). Remove from the oven and let stand for 10 minutes before serving.

The Sauce
Add the fat, sugar and cream to a saucepan over medium heat, whisking until the sugar is incorporated, approximately 3-5 minutes. Add the alcohol and bring to just below a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat and simmer for 5-7 minutes until slightly thickened. Drizzle over the bread pudding.

Notes
I used bacon fat, but butter can be substituted for it. I would recommend using very high quality bacon in this dish as it is going to be a dominant flavor. I would caution using bacon that has been cured in maple syrup as it might cause this dish to become too sweet. The drying out the bread in the oven is critical to the creamy texture of the dish – stale bread does not absorb the liquid as well as the dried bread and will lead to a less creamy dish. If you can’t find brioche, you can use just about any bread (challah will work really well), just make sure you can slice it thickly. This recipe will serve 12 people easily, so you can scale it down accordingly.

Beer of the Week: Latona 25th Anniversary by Anacortes Brewing

By Iron Chef Leftovers

One of the beer week events that we went to was the Latona Pub’s 25th anniversary party which featured some beers from Anacortes Brewing. I have never been shy about my love of the beers brewed by the guys there – they are my favorite Washington brewery and I think they consistently put out the best beers in the state. For the Latona’s 25th, Anacortes brewed a Rye IPA – which was available in both cask and regular draught that night. The draught was great, the cask was amazing.

A very typical IPA from Anacortes, light amber in color; very hop forward and floral on the nose with lots of citrus; both the hops and citrus were more pronounced in the cask version. Hints of rye and malt show up initially on the palate, but they quickly give way lots of citrus (grapefruit mostly) fading into a long and intense lingering bitterness from what I can only imagine is copious amounts of hops (I am sure this beer was 100+ IBU). This beer is hoppy to the extreme, if you don’t like an overly hopped beer; this is definitely not for you.

I love the regular IPA from Anacortes, but this version might actually be better than their standard – I would drive the 80 miles each way from Seattle to Anacortes just to have this beer.

The Anacortes Latona 25th Anniversary Beer scores a 4 out of 5 birthday cakes for the regular version and 5 out of 5 birthday cakes for the cask version. Regardless of the version you have, you would be a very happy hop-head with this beer.