Chicken Soup for the Impatient Soul

By Iron Chef Leftovers

A couple of friends of mine were feeling under the weather and I made them some chicken soup to assist in the healing process. I have fond memories from my youth of my dad making the soup from scratch in the winter – but it was an all day process. These days, there are plenty of times where Mrs. Iron Chef feels like soup for dinner and tells me later in the afternoon. I really am not a fan of canned soups – the veggies tend to be completely mush and they have entirely too much sodium in them, so fortunately, I devised a way to make it in roughly 20 – 30 minutes, depending on how soft you want your veggies. The soup is a heck of a lot better than the canned stuff, but not quite at the Jewish grandmother level, but it is much easier to make. The recipe below is really just a base, feel free to add in whatever veggies you want, or if you want to make veggie soup, just leave out the chicken and substitute veggie broth for chicken.

The Software
1 tablespoon of olive oil
3 medium carrots diced into 1/4 inch pieces
2 ribs of celery (including the leaves) diced into 1/4 inch pieces
1/2 large yellow onion, roughly chopped
1 parsnip diced into 1/4 inch pieces
1 small head bok choy roughly chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
3 cloves of garlic (smashed but not diced)
2 bay leaves
1 supermarket rotisserie chicken
4 cups low sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup soy sauce
1 oz cognac (optional)
1 cup beef broth (optional)
The rind of a piece of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese (optional – see final notes below)
Salt
Pepper

The Bird
Yes, just buy a supermarket rotisserie chicken. They are perfect for this soup and already cooked. Taking the bird apart is a hands-on experience (literally), so make sure the meat is cool enough to handle. It is an easy thing to do and doesn’t actually require a knife to do it, but you will get your hands messy. You are also only going to need the dark meat. It doesn’t matter if you only like white meat – get over it. The dark meat has infinitely more flavor and it won’t dry out. Save the breasts for chicken salad (my take on my grandmother’s recipe coming soon) or some other application where all of the flavor is being delivered by the sauce/dressing/seasonings. First, remove the skin from the entire bird. Please don’t throw it out – it is delicious and good for you (lots of vitamins and contrary to what you may think, fat does not make you fat). If you don’t want it, bring it over to my place, I will be happy to take it from you. Next, remove the wings, legs and thighs from the body and remove the meat from the bones (you can discard the bones) and set aside. Then remove the breast meat from the carcass. Set that off somewhere so you are not tempted to use it. Now the fun part – pick all of the remaining meat off the carcass. There is probably some fat left on there, which you can just get rid of, but work at getting everything else off. It doesn’t have to be completely stripped, just get all of the major chunks of meat off (especially off the back). There is a surprising amount of meat that people tend to leave on the carcass with roast birds – most of it very tasty. This exercise will show you just how much you are wasting. Take all of the dark meat, roughly chop it and set it aside. Save the body cavity – we need it for the soup.

The Soup
In a large stock pot or Dutch oven heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium high heat until shimmering. Add the carrots, celery, parsnip and onions and cook until slightly softened but not browned, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the broth, garlic, bay leaves and chicken body cavity to the pot and bring to a boil. When a boil is reached, reduce heat to medium low and add soy, cognac, Parmigiano rind and bok choy. Simmer for 10 minutes or until the veggies reach your desired state of doneness. Remove from heat and remove the chicken carcass, garlic, rind and bay leaves. Add the chicken meat to the soup (it is already cooked, so you are just warming it up with the residual heat from the soup). Check the seasoning – add salt and pepper to taste.

Final Notes
This is wonderful served by itself or over some rice or small pasta like orzo. If you want a thinner broth, add water to the soup as necessary (just remember to recheck the seasoning if you do this). Cool any leftovers and portion them out. This recipe makes 6 – 8 meal sized servings of soup and you can easily extend it past that if you want to add more veggies/broth/water to it. You ask, why would I have the rind of Parmigiano Reggiano and add it to the soup? Simple – flavor. If you have Parmigiano at home, keep the rind in a zip top bag and put it in the freezer. If you don’t have it, go to the cheese counter of any store that carries it and ask them if you can have some of the rind. They will usually just give it to you. It makes a huge difference in the flavor of the soup.

Run Scoring in the AL East

By Blaidd Drwg

I happened to be looking at the MLB standings this morning and I noticed something interesting In the AL East:

Team League Ranking

Runs Scored

League Ranking

Runs Allowed

Rays 3 4
Yankees 1 (tie) 9
Red Sox 1 (tie) 21
Blue Jays 4 13

The top 4 teams in the division are the top 4 scoring teams in baseball (think about that, all of MLB, not just the AL) as of this morning. The Yankees and Sox are both tied with 314 runs scored and the Rays and Jays are just slightly behind with 296 and 295 runs scored respectively. To put it into perspective, the Mariners currently rank 27th in runs scored with 203. The offense in the AL East is a good reason why the Blue Jays would be within half a game of the division lead in 3 of the divisions, within 1 game of one of them and leading the AL West, instead of being in 4th place in the East.

Maybe the M’s can learn something from this – considering the Sox, Yankees and Rays all “focused” on defense this offseason.

Looking back at the MLB All-Century Team

By Blaidd Drwg

I was reading this blog and there was a statement that got me thinking about something (I will post the statement below). First, a little game of who is the best player on this list:

OPS+ MVP Won MVP Top 5 WAR RTZ
Player A 150 1 5 63.9 85
Player B 159 3 9 127.8 3
Player C 164 3 7 103.4 192
Player D 154 2 5 107.4 26

All of the players played the OF. Since we are looking at players from different eras, I thought that the counting stats (hits, HR, RBI, etc) would skew the perceptions, so I went with the stats that I thought would best compare the players. A note about player B – his RTZ is incomplete since not all of the data to compile the stat is available, but, based on what I have read, calling him a league average defender seems to be accurate. Looking at this chart, it is pretty clear that Player A is would probably be ranked #4 among these players, but it is really not clear who would be the best of the bunch (I would probably vote for player B).

Same chart, with a slight adjustment for players A and C:

OPS+ MVP Won MVP Top 5 WAR RTZ
Player A 135 1 5 78.4 -14
Player B 159 3 9 127.8 3
Player C 181 7 12 171.8 173
Player D 154 2 5 107.4 26

The best in this chart is pretty clear – it is Player C.

Now for the reveal:

Player A – Ken Griffey, Jr

Player B – Stan Musial

Player C – Barry Bonds

Player D – Frank Robinson

The first chart includes Griffey and Bonds stats through 1998; the second includes their whole careers. So what made me do this comparison? This little tidbit:

In 1999, when Major League Baseball and its fans chose their All-Century roster, Griffey was there, beating out the likes of Barry Bonds, Stan Musial, and Frank Robinson, to name a few. He was the face of baseball for a decade and, when he won his MVP award in 1997, it felt like he was certain to win many more.

I had forgotten that Bonds did not make the team (and he was arguably the best player in baseball at the time), but was surprised Frank Robby also failed to make it and that Musial was the last OF to make it (selected by a “blue ribbon” panel after the fan vote – he actually had fewer fan votes than Roberto Clemente), as they were also among the greatest players to play the game. I realize that like the All Star voting, the All Century team was about popularity more than actual greatness, and Griffey was the most popular player in the game in 1999, so the results should not be all that surprising. You also can’t make the “position argument” (they didn’t play the same positions) since the voting was not by position – all OFers were lumped together. In retrospect though, there were at least 3 players who appear to be more deserving.

Before anyone makes the Bonds/steroids comments – it is generally accepted that Bonds did not use anything prior to 2001, and no one can prove or disprove that either Bonds or Griffey were clean prior to 1999, so I don’t see any argument for the stats not being comparable.

The second chart is the full career numbers for all of the players. Bonds, just purely on raw numbers, is clearly the best on this list. If you want to take him out with the steroid argument, then take your pick – Musial or Robby. Either way, Griffey ranks #4.

The other thing that I noticed was just how badly Griffey’s career fell off a cliff. Here are the numbers for Griffey and Bonds from 1999 through the end of their careers:

OPS+ MVP Won MVP Top 5 WAR RTZ
Griffey 119 0 0 14.5 -99
Bonds 214 4 5 68.4 19

Griffey really only had 2 great seasons after age 28 (1999 and 2000) and became as fragile as a china doll after that, but that wasn’t really a surprise. What shocked me is how truly bad defensively he became. I guess that was to be expected as his health declined, but it really does make me question why the Reds continued to play him in CF when it was pretty obvious he couldn’t handle the position anymore.

Griffey is no doubt a first ballot HOFer but for all of the sappy sentimentalism that has been showered on him the past few days, I am not sure if you can legitimately make the argument for him as one of the 10 best OF in baseball history anymore.

Junior Retires

by Coltrane

Great career.  It was time.

The final seasons of the top 5 home run hitters of all time, excluding Bonds:

Name Age G AB H 2B HR BB BA OBP SLG OPS
Aaron 42 85 271 62 8 10 35 .229 .315 .369 .684
Ruth 40 28 72 13 0 6 20 .181 .359 .341 .789
Mays 42 66 209 44 10 6 27 .211 .303 .344 .647
Griffey 40 33 98 18 2 0 9 .184 .250 .204 .454
Average 41 53 163 34 5 6 23 .211 .305 .343 .648

Children + Fine Dining = Oxymoron

by Coltrane

Most adults are convinced that the food they ate as kids wasn’t well made or of high quality.

I think I’ve figured one element of it. But first, a story..

Last night I had dinner with friends in a neighborhood pub. The place was packed with locals. The crowd included a high proportion of families with young children.

The pub was loud due to the big crowd and a complete absence of soundproofing. The service was slow and inattentive. Our $14 entrees “should” have been about $8-10. The food was “meh”—it wasn’t good, it wasn’t bad… it really wasn’t anything, there was nothing interesting about it. It just sat on the plate.

But that’s the thing– the food and service didn’t have to be good. The pub was the only “family friendly” place in the neighborhood. It was going to be packed regardless of whatever the kitchen threw out there, or whether the waitstaff could correctly remember our orders. (They couldn’t, on two out of our three entrees the waitress missed something. She also forgot one of the three drink orders.)

Of course,  that’s what happens when you put kids into the equation. Families don’t tip well in a place like that. They’re also not appreciative of good food. (Find me an eight year-old with a truly discerning palate.) The parents are just relieved that they don’t have to cook and do dishes. So long as the food is edible, and Timmy doesn’t refuse to eat the Mac and Cheese he asked for, the parents aren’t going to complain.

When faced with bad tips and unruly kids a good waitress is going to find somewhere else to work. A good cook is going to find another restaurant where they appreciate his skill. 

That’s why we remember the food being so “meh” when we were children. It’s because it was “meh”. That Chinese place you remember from when you were young? Family Friendly. That Mexican Joint? Family Friendly. Anyplace that kids can go with their families is not where the adults that care what the food tastes like go to eat. It was true then and it’s true now.

My advice? Upon entering a restaurant, look around. If you see a large population of pre-teens you can count on getting marginal food and service. If you’re ok with that, fine, stay and eat.

Otherwise go elsewhere and enjoy good food with the adults.

Top Chef Masters – An Update

By Iron Chef Leftovers

If you are watching Top Chef Masters and haven’t caught up, look away now.

A few months ago, I made this prediction about the final 4 on Top Chef Masters – My picks for the finals – Rick Tramonto, Marcus Samuelsson, Jon Waxman and Mark Peel. Well, I am 50% on that prediction. Samuelsson and Waxman have made it to the final 4. Peel and Tramonto were big disappointments, but hey, I will take it. I was disappointed to see all 3 Seattle chefs get eliminated in the first round, but I was happy to see Jody Adams last a few rounds. Thierry Rautureau had possibly the best moment at Critic’s Table – when the judges asked about his food, Rautureau said his problem was “a French guy was trying to squeeze a 7 course meal into one dish.” I still think that Samuelsson is going to win, but Susur Lee seems like he might put up a fight.

Overall, I really don’t like this show – the editing is terrible, the critics are annoying and there isn’t the intensity of the competition of the regular Top Chef show, but it is mildly entertaining, so I end up watching it.

The only real subsititute for Parmigiano Reggiano is…

By Iron Chef Leftovers

Parmigiano Reggiano. It is the undisputed king of cheeses (hence the Reggiano) and nothing really compares to its grassy, nutty flavor. Cook’s Illustrated did a taste test (sorry, no link, it is subscriber only) and nothing came close. This question was printed in the Seattle Times and the answer, given by a professional food writer, was vague and really not helpful. Yes, the really high end Parmigiano is pricey, but there are several less expensive sources (granted, they aren’t the highest quality, but will still blow the doors off any other cheese): Costco, Trader Joe’s and Seattle based PFI (probably the best cheese selection in Seattle, but they do have a 1 pound minimum on any cheese) all carry Reggiano at less than $13 a pound.

The writer of the question said that Reggiano was no longer in his budget. I use the stuff in a good deal of my cooking and a pound lasts me almost 6 months (you really don’t need that much unless you want whatever you put it in to taste like Reggiano and nothing else). Between the small amount you need of Reggiano and the larger amount of any other cheese you need to get the same flavor, my guess is that you would spend roughly the same amount a year on cheese. If you are going to do that, you might as well go with the king.

Beer Leagues and Major Leagues

by Coltrane

In his New Historical Baseball Abstract (2001), Bill James lists 16 indicators that he believes can used to determine the quality of play in Major League Baseball.   He calls these “Peripheral Quality Indicia”, or “PQL for short.”  (An acronym that didn’t catch on, go figure.)  Using Bob Lemon as an example, James writes about the fact that hitting by pitchers has declined steadily over the history of major league baseball, and that this is because the overall quality of play has improved with the passage of time.

The List, make a mental note of the items that are in bold:

1.  Hitting by pitchers.

2.  The average distance of players, in age, from 27.

3.  The percentage of players who are less than six feet tall or more than 6’3″.  [Ed:  Percentage of players who differ from the ideal size for the sport.]

4.  Fielding Percentage and Passed Balls.

5.  Double Plays.

6.  Usage of pitchers at other positions.

7.  The percentage of fielding plays made by pitchers.

8.  The percentage of games which are blowouts.

9.  The average attendance and seating capacity of the game location.

10.  The condition of the field.

11.  The use of players in specialized roles.

12.  The average distance of teams from .500.

13.  The percentage of games that go nine innings.

14.  The standard deviation of offensive effectiveness.

15.  The standard of record-keeping.

16.  The percentage of managers who have 20 years or more experience in the game.

James’ list looks specifically at major league baseball.  I think that the items in bold apply to any sporting event.  Take for example– a bunch of 13 year-old kids playing basketball at the playground.  The kids are young and small, the rim’s probably bent and there are likely cracks in the blacktop, nobody is watching them play because nobody really cares who wins, and when somebody does win it might be by a score of around 15-5, and that’s if anyone is keeping score at all.  It’s not good basketball, and by extension it isn’t much of a sporting event.

Competition has increased in the NFL too.  It used to be that players were expected to play both offense and defense– to be “two-way players.”  Frank Gifford played Running Back and Defensive Back.  Pat Summerall played Tight End, Defensive End, and Kicked for good measure.  They both played for the Giants in the late 50’s.  The Giants had five positions covered by two guys in the “Greatest Game Ever Played“, the NFL Championship, in 1958.  (The game also featured Vince Lombardi as the Giants Offensive Coordinator, and Tom Landry as their Defensive Coordinator– 17 Hall of Famers in all.)   The NFL has now evolved to the point that in order to hold a job a player has to resemble whatever the idealized phenotype is for their position.

Where else can this be seen?  Notable achievements in “Low Competition” settings include:  Joe DiMaggio’s 56 game hitting streak in 1941.  The UCLA Bruins basketball winning streaks in the 60’s and 70’s.  The UConn women’s basketball streaks (and their average winning margin of nearly 30 points) of the new millenium.

“High Competition” settings include:  The development left-handed relief specialists in major league baseball.  The explosion of sabermetrics and advanced statistics in baseball and basketball.  Football now has “3rd down backs”, “nickle” defensive backs, specialized punters and kickers, and players that only return those kicks.

Probably the quickest and easiest way to know if it’s competitive?  Look in the stands and see how many paying customers are at the event.  If the spectators are all kids — if the crowd sounds like a Justin Bieber concert– it tells you all you need to know.

Historical Baseball Abstract link here.

Bill James is from Kansas.  Here’s probably the strangest music video ever made entitled Kansas, by The Wolfgang Press.  Check out those creepy Kennedy masks!  The way the song is mixed it seems to me that it’s intended to be listened to loud.  Annoy the neighbors.

Goodbye, Brasa

By Iron Chef Leftovers

In case you were a fan, long time Seattle restaurant, Brasa, in Belltown has shut its doors. Normally I am sad to see places that have been around for 10 years close, but Brasa was the site of my single worst dining experience in Seattle (If I can find my review of it, I will add it), so I say goodbye and good luck to the owners and sadly, Brasa will not be missed by me.

Laurelhurst Market – A Review

By Iron Chef Leftovers

I really like the concept – a restaurant and a butcher shop and why not? There isn’t really any reason why a place that makes it’s own cured meats shouldn’t sell them retail. Laurelhurst Market, it the Laurelhurst section of Portland is such a place. There is a small butcher counter where you can buy any of their house made pates, bacon and sausages as well as select cuts of high quality meat (grass fed and organic) at very reasonable prices compared to your local mega mart. It made me want to get a cooler and ice and bring some home, but I was there for the restaurant, not the butcher shop.

The restaurant space is nice – a big open space with high ceilings and an open kitchen. You would expect a deafening noise level in there, but Laurelhurst Market has done something that I wish more restaurants with high ceilings would do – they covered their ceilings with noise reducing cloth, making it so you could actually hear the conversation with the person next to you. This place is busy too – on a Sunday at 6 PM there were no open tables and by the time I left at about 8, there was a waiting list that was still a few people deep (they don’t take reservations either). What is the draw? Very solid food, relatively inexpensive prices for the quality and quantity of the meal. This is a steak place with quality of a high-end place (think Jak’s in Seattle or Ruth’s Chris) and the prices of Outback Steakhouse. The appetizers range from 5 to 14 dollars and the entrees range from 13 to 32 dollars with the majority of the menu clocking in at under $20. Sides are ala carte, but range from 5 to 7 dollars and are large enough for sharing. Desserts range from 6 to 9 dollars.

We started out meal with a small charcuterie plate – for $6 we got to taste a sampling of the house made meats – Country Pate, Venison Pate, Liverwurst and Mortadella. All were excellent, with the Venison Pate really stealing the show. It had a wonderful flavor without being gamey. Next course involved the sweetbreads and house made mozzarella. The sweetbreads came crispy on a bed of braised bok choy and onions in a savory beef broth. The sweetbreads were perfectly cooked and the broth brought an amazing complexity to the dish. The mozzarella, house made to order, was a generous chunk of cheese, served still warm with strawberries and balsamic vinegar. While fantastic, it seemed to be more appropriate for dessert with the sweetness of the berries and balsamic balancing the creaminess of the cheese. For a main course, steak frites and tri-tip with grilled romaine were on deck. The tri-tip was perfectly grilled just short of medium rare with a side of caramelized onions and a béarnaise sauce. The onions worked extremely well complimenting the meatiness of the stake, and the béarnaise was a nice accompaniment to the dish. The grilled romaine was a smoky, crunchy, salty, sweet delight, very well done. My only real complaint – they sauced the steak rather than having the sauce on the side. The steak frites was a wonderfully smoky flat iron in a brown gravy with some of the best frites I have had in a while – wonderfully crispy on the outside, flaky within. My complaint – where was the aioli? Dessert was their take on a s’mores, deconstructed – a house made marshmallow cube, melted bittersweet chocolate and a rosemary graham cracker – chased by a shot of Maker’s Mark whiskey. A gooey, chocolaty mess, totally worth it and easily filling for 2 people.

Overall, Laurelhurst Market lives up to the rave reviews that people are giving it, just be prepared to wait for a table if you don’t get there early (they do have a bar that will make the wait easier). Now, if we could just get the same type of place in Seattle…